2003 Grand Cherokee Laredo

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JimBill

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I've had this WJ for about 10 months. Ill post up when I run across anything interesting or do anything unique. Today I'm chasing a sudden axle bearing noise on the right axle. The retainer plate had a wrong nut and it took a bit since the stud was turning when the nut seized. I found the bearing retainer had slid, and was allowing about 3/8 inch play. So I was just about to loose an axle. Anyhow, after carefully cutting and splitting the retainer and bearing race, I found this beauty of a past job. There is serious grinds on the axle. See picture. So I ask, it this road safe for the time being? I have a junkyard differential waiting rebuild and truss work, but that is many months off. 108534108535
 
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JimBill

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The Clayton axle truss and Mountain Vista Fabrication skid plate are being fitted to the donor junkyard rear end. The Dana 44 HD aluminum housing shall not be an issue once this is all welded up.

truss fitment.jpg Skid fitment.jpg
 
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JimBill

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Well now, maybe I am late to the party but I just discovered PanaVice dash mounts. No mods, bolts right under the radio. Drivers side holds my Baofeng or Midland Radios, left side the GPS or phone. No more consul clutter. Next on list are mounts for my Tahoe and lady's Trailblazer.

Panavice.jpg Panavice Loaded.jpg
 

TJDon

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I put a panavice in my‘99 WJ a couple weeks back. I wish I had installed one along time ago! I’ll be getting a 2nd one as well
 
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JimBill

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So the truss and skid plate are all welded in. But now I am at a crossroads. Originally I planned for an Aussie locker, but now I see ARB has an air locker available. Since 99% of the time a locker is not needed, and I do see snow and ice once in a while, the ARB is looking like the better setup to keep all wheel drive performance and driveability on the road and trail, and for the rare occasion I need to lock up, there it is. But the downside is the cost, it will take another 6 months to absorb an ARB install with full new bearings and setup, and air system. Or just slap the Aussie and be done with it. Decisions... It's only time and money right??

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JimBill

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Tereflex front quick disconnects installed today. Bought them for a trip to Death Valley last spring, but out of the box quality had me request to return them. Well no response from the vendor so they sat int he garage for the summer. The issue is it is like the bushings just shrank. The bushings are very loose in the housings, and none of the pins fit the bushing holes. I turned each pin for a custom fit to each bushing and installed them today. Added paint so I can keep track of installing in the correct orientation to the custom pins. On road the lose bushings thump away, I can feel and hear the play. Likely they will self destruct in short order. I will try them out at Sierra 2019 event then likely take them out. Pure Crap. So can I run the trails with just one disconnected? Would save time to not have to figure out how to hold the bar up.

EDIT: After a drive last evening and to work this morning, ordered the Rough country discos to replace these. 100% unacceptable for street use, the slop in the bushings to the housings results in constant knocking from both sides.

P_20190908_160610.jpeg
 
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JimBill

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The Teraflex discos went in the garbage and installed a set of Rough Country. Weld quality is a little suspect and lower bushings a bit loose on the pins, but a test drive sounded tolerable. About 1/4 the noise of the others. If I believe the internet, if they don't beak I should get 2 or so years out of them. All said this set is a better system and I like having the bracket ready to attach the ends and hold the bar up secure when disconnected. I will get some run time on this set and see how they hold up overall.

P_20190915_120729.jpg
 
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JimBill

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Ok this is from late last year. Had to R&R the front pinion seal on the Dana 30. What a pain, no pneumatic tools. The Yoke is held by a pipe wrench attached to the ramp, and the floor jack was needed to push the breaker bar to position the pinion nut to the marked position. Adapt and overcome, right?

P_20181110_122630.jpg
 
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tjZ06

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Ok this is from late last year. Had to R&R the front pinion seal on the Dana 30. What a pain, no pneumatic tools. The Yoke is held by a pipe wrench attached to the ramp, and the floor jack was needed to push the breaker bar to position the pinion nut to the marked position. Adapt and overcome, right?

View attachment 119210
Wow, tip 'o the hat, I would have called a buddy (or two) and ordered a pizza to bribe them to help me out. That's some ingenuity right there. Also, I really like that PanaVice, thanks for helping me find that. What radio is that exactly in the pic above? How do you like it?

-TJ
 

JimBill

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Wow, tip 'o the hat, I would have called a buddy (or two) and ordered a pizza to bribe them to help me out. That's some ingenuity right there. Also, I really like that PanaVice, thanks for helping me find that. What radio is that exactly in the pic above? How do you like it?

-TJ
Thanks! I was determined to get it done.... The radio is a Midland 75-822 handheld CB, but frankly I have not used it much. But so far so good for how I use it. Mostly though, I clip on a Baofeng UV-5R since that is what most of the folks I end up running with use. The Baofeng is much the same as a walkie talkie in size. As a matter of fact, sometimes I do clip a walkie talkie on the bracket if Im convoying with someone for any reason on the highway. The need for the coms to be portable is due to owning several vehicles and needing to switch back and forth, and also it does come in handy if walking away from your group to explore, scout the trail on foot, or heed nature's call. Just grab it and clip it to your belt. However reach is limited due to the small antennas, so if you need to reach out more serious hardware is required.
 
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tjZ06

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Thanks! I was determined to get it done.... The radio is a Midland 75-822 handheld CB, but frankly I have not used it much. But so far so good for how I use it. Mostly though, I clip on a Baofeng UV-5R since that is what most of the folks I end up running with use. The Baofeng is much the same as a walkie talkie in size. As a matter of fact, sometimes I do clip a walkie talkie on the bracket if Im convoying with someone for any reason on the highway. The need for the coms to be portable is due to owning several vehicles and needing to switch back and forth, and also it does come in handy if walking away from your group to explore, scout the trail on foot, or heed nature's call. Just grab it and clip it to your belt. However reach is limited due to the small antennas, so if you need to reach out more serious hardware is required.
Thanks for the info, I think I'll order one of those Baofengs. Last trip I just brought the walkie-talkies I had, and they were fine since we only had 4-rigs and weren't stretched out super far. Still, I'd like something better. In my sand rails and RZRs I've always had fully setup comms, so it's something "lacking" in my Overlander. That mount will be handy because I was fumbling around with my phone (using Avenza PDF maps) and the Walky all trip. They both ended up under my feet or between the seat and console many times.

-TJ
 

JimBill

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Thanks for the info, I think I'll order one of those Baofengs. Last trip I just brought the walkie-talkies I had, and they were fine since we only had 4-rigs and weren't stretched out super far. Still, I'd like something better. In my sand rails and RZRs I've always had fully setup comms, so it's something "lacking" in my Overlander. That mount will be handy because I was fumbling around with my phone (using Avenza PDF maps) and the Walky all trip. They both ended up under my feet or between the seat and console many times.

-TJ
Check Amazon. Baofeng is extremely budget friendly. Add a handheld mic and roof antenna and you are set. I still need the antenna.....
 

JimBill

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The Teraflex discos went in the garbage and installed a set of Rough Country. Weld quality is a little suspect and lower bushings a bit loose on the pins, but a test drive sounded tolerable. About 1/4 the noise of the others. If I believe the internet, if they don't beak I should get 2 or so years out of them. All said this set is a better system and I like having the bracket ready to attach the ends and hold the bar up secure when disconnected. I will get some run time on this set and see how they hold up overall.

View attachment 117569
They work!
P_20190921_131130.jpeg
 

JimBill

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We had a great time this last weekend attending Overland Bound Rally Sierras 2019! This was our first OB event of any kind. I arrived Friday and set up camp and checked in. I enjoyed dinner with the OB group, but a painfully bad hip had me pretty well anti social but I did enjoy people watching and listening to the speakers. After some back and forth, I changed my trail run from the "easy" Courtright trail to the "medium" Bald Mountain Loop. Yvonne arrived late Friday, and after a decent nights sleep we were up bright and early Saturday for the drivers/spotters safety meeting. We then had a nice breakfast before heading out to our 10 O'clock trail run. The run was very challenging, and lead by Lee of 50StatesOverland.com and a top notch spotter. I was the lone WJ in a group of Toyotas who by all appearances were a step higher in mods and capability than my mostly stock appearing WJ. I would not have ran the trail alone for sure, but had full faith in the spotter. The trail had what I would call 3 gate keepers, and the WJ handled it with barely a tire spin and we received a number of compliments on the vehicle performance. With the front sway bar disconnected the WJ just floated over some pretty major obstacles. Sorry, I have no good trail photos, I was too busy driving and having a good time. The weather wasn't great for views on top of Bald Mountain, but it didn't matter since the trial run was so fun and a heck of a challenge for me.

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JimBill

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OB Rally Sierras Saturday night was a lot of fun with the OB crew. We enjoyed dinner and shared a table with Alex and crew from Wagan, who was one of the graceful sponsors of the event. Afterwards we enjoyed the rafffle and then spent time warming around the campfire and participating in the fun storytelling. After returning to camp and waiting for our roudy young obnoxious drunk not OB camp neighbors to get finally busted and turn the thumping music off, we had a nice nights sleep. Sunday was a lazy morning tearing down camp (finally peace and quiet, the partiers next to us were hung over and still passed out) and then heading to Courtright Reservoir to run the "easy" trail. Wow it did prove challenging, but I didn't help the cause by not airing down or disconnecting the sway bar (it was late in the day and I wanted to keep moving... and as we discussed the situation we realized we took the "easy" trail description to passively). I did end up disconnecting for the trail return trip and it was a much easier and smother ride. A few things did shake out during the Saturday and Sunday runs, but I will address what I found and learned about the WJ on the next post.

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tjZ06

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Sorry, I have no good trail photos, I was too busy driving and having a good time.
No need to be sorry, I'm usually super guilty of that. I only have a few pics from my last run (like the one I use as my avatar) because I had a buddy with me that likes to snap pics. It sounds like you had an awesome time, and I need to put this on my "must do" list for next year. Also, it's always great to hear about a WJ out there representing. I find when you get a WJ, especially a stock appearing one, out on the trail with a lot of non-SAS'ed 'yotas the solid axle envy builds quickly! Looking forward to hearing what you discovered about the WJ, and how you'll address it in your next posts.

-TJ
 

JimBill

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I bought the WJ to build a fully capable off road rig, to serve as a toy and replace my 76 Cherokee and go where the Tahoe shouldn't go. And to do it in luxury to keep Yvonne interested in being the copilot. But I like driving the thing so much and now regret not buying one when they were relatively new. I have put more miles on it than intended as I experienced the vehicles on-road niceties and off road capabilities. So the mod target has changed a bit over the last year.

The overall plan is 3 phased-

1) Shake it out and repair as necessary-
Change all fluids, spark plugs, brakes, rebuild drivelines, replace window regulators, change axle bearings, fix pinion seal leak, etc. All the usual stuff to make up for the defered maintenance of the previous owner. I now am reasonably comfortable with it's reliability. But it is a Jeep, so fixing stuff will never end.

2) Optimize what is there (budget boost) and cover the weak spots-
I decided the end goal is a 3" or 3 1/2 inch lift. So all optimization has been setting me up for this. New 3" lift Rancho shocks, front sway bar disconnects, extending the rear sway bar end links, ongoing tuning of bumpstops, upgraded track bar, change cooling setup to get rid of hydraulic fan, add radiator protection (Goliath front skid), install strengthened D44HD. And little things like Panavice mounts for the dash, mount fire extinguisher, remove electric seat setup for less weight and room under the front seats, remove 10 CD changer and store first aid kit, and so on.

3) Mod it-
IRO 3" lift springs, 1/2 inch spacers, front IRO long arm, rear adjustable lower trailing arms, IRO skid plate, and eventually a tank tuck and maybe rock sliders. 32" tires on Wrangler 16" steel wheels, front bumper trim, and some sort of added off road lighting. If I can pull it off cleanly, will also add on-board air.

Since I enjoy driving the WJ on road as well, the plan is based on keeping it daily driveable. This includes keeping tabs on mpg, stability, comfort, and weight. No roof rack, I make use of the factory rails and add gas cans and other items as needed for each planned adventure. No cargo rack or other permanent slides, drawers, or the like inside. Oversized spare tire will go on a KOR roof mount when I need the cargo space. I use bins and duffle bags, again outfitting for each trip. I have worked out kits I store in the garage and a loading strategy for the WJ. Grab what I need, strap it in, and go! I have multiple vehicles, and many different types of adventures, so this is what works for me. I may be overlanding, hunting and base camping for 10 days, headed out on a day trip with recovery gear only, or cooking a family brunch at Pismo beach. So a fixed set up does not work FOR ME. Your results may vary!

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JimBill

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What I have learned about the WJ so far: (no revelations but observations and confirming what others say...)

Ride is fantastic off road. I went from a 76 Cherokee to a Z71 Chevy Truck to a Tahoe to the WJ. The WJ is the most comfortable platform yet!
Flex is good stock, but disconnect front sway bar. The flex will increase even more dramatically, earn comments from the IFS guys, and reward you with a Cadillac ride off road. But, tire clearance amps to a whole new game when disconnected. A little rub when testing will be a major rub when in the rough. Bumpstop spacer length needs to be dailed in. To get the most out of the vehicle on road, after a lift definitely add the appropriate extended sway bar links and make sure geometry is in spec.

I really, really, really prefer the ride with the Rancho 5000x shocks over the Billsteins (which I thought were good). I can feel more with the Rancho, but it is not jarring or harsh, just better trail feedback so I know what is going on and less bottoming on the bumpstops. Doing 45 mph over washboard in Saline Valley made for a pleasant drive (but it killed the Billstein shocks). Install front bumpstop spacers, real ones, not the cheap boxed ones, when you install an upgraded track bar. Keep the bar off of the oil pan at full compression! Also, a 2x4 can be used as a replacement bumpstop spacer if you crush said cheap thin Amazon spacers doing 45 mph and hit an erosion ditch in the road.

Packing the WJ is a challenge, the cargo room and load capacity is limited. I had to get a backpacking mindset back. I do not feel much difference in handling with cargo on the roof (the Tahoe would sway noticeably). But mpg suffers. Coming home from the last trip, with gas cans on the roof and fighting the wind on highways 99 and 152, I was down 1 1/2 mpg. The cargo weight (max vehicle weight) of the WJ is limiting. Me and my co-pilot are big people, so we use up a bit of weight capacity. I took the electric seat frames out and installed manual, saving 20 pounds each. This allows me to carry my tool kit and a bit of recovery gear without going into the weight budget. With the rear seat bottoms removed, I lay out the soft toolbags across the floorboard and strap them in. Access is good and the weight is very low and centered in the vehicle. The axe and shovel fit under the folded down back seat top. With just a cooler and the tools/recovery gear, the ride is very neutral and the WJ ride is incredibly smooth. But a 7 day trip to Death Valley, with full load out and 2 people, put us just above max. With just me, I could do a 14 day trip and stay well below max weight.....

The hydraulic cooling fan makes me nervous. Temp bounces between 195 and 215+ seemingly at random. Strangely, temp drops if I run high range on long uphill grades and keep the RPMs down. I believe it is because the transmission temp increases enough to kick the fan into gear. With the 4.7, overtemp is a killer, so I would like some control of the cooling system. Underhood temps are always much higher then I like, the fan at idle does not push any airflow through the engine bay. The later model 3 wire solenoid is not adjustable so I have to live with the low fan idle rpm. I believe any constant airflow will help maintain a steady 195, and be that much easier on underhood components. For that reason a conversion to the 99-2000 electric/mechanical fan system is in the works. I will run the mechanical as primary and the electric fan to kick in at 200 degrees. I want the piece of mind I will not overheat this engine.

Why 3 1/2 inch lift? I chose this used WJ specifically for how it was optioned. It has full skids (i wanted the gas tank skid), Cardan joints (no Repezza), 242 transfer case, and Dana 44, V8 for me and a sunroof for the copilot. It will handle just below 4" lift withough needing to drop the transfer case, replace drivelines, install a slip yoke eliminator kit, and the like. At 4 inches things become marginal, and to do it right the expense goes way up. To the point where you might as well go 6". I am amazed at what I have done with the budget boost, and feel I will be able to do what I want without going extreme. 3 1/2 inch is the best value for the capability. And I will still be able to source many junk yard parts (like drivelines) if I need to get out of a jamb. Also, road manners will be fantastic. Going long arm in the front is just for luxury....and in case I want more later.

On this WJ, the two weakest points are the radiator and Dana 44HD aluminum housing. I will be adding a Goliath front skid to protect the radiator. The factory plastic bumper offers no protection. Any slip against a rock, a hit a stump while driving through grass or snow, it gets backed into, etc. will pop the radiator. A little steel in front will help that. The aluminum housing on the D44HD cannot be jacked up from the pumpkin, or it can deform and screw the ring and pinion setup. Same goes if you smack one of the axle tubes. Otherwise it is more than formidable for the platform. So in will go a truss and skid plate modified differential.

Lastly the gas tanks hang low. Even with just the budget boost, the only thing I have smacked on the trail is the gas tank when coming down a granite step. So a tank tuck is planned in the future.
 
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