DIY "No Welding" Roof Rack

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Kelly

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Can't find a roof rack that does exactly what you'd like? Want to build your own, but don't have a welder? Or, you can weld steel, but it's too heavy? I found a solution. 3/4" (ID) Schedule 40 (thick wall) Aluminum Speed-Rail. If you can use Tinker Toys, you can not only build your own rack, but you can change/add-on/redesign anytime you want. All you need is a Sawzall (or angle grinder or chop saw) & a 3/16" allen wrench!!!

http://www.hollaender.com/?page=sliponfittings

I also used 1" Square Tube (1/16th wall) as a "Floor".

I work as a Rigger in the Film Industry. We build stuff out of the 1 1/2" version on this stuff all the time.

Examples: http://www.all-in-one-truck.com/rigging.htm

Feel free to contact me for more info.

IMG_4005.JPG IMG_4006.JPG IMG_4010.PNG
 

Kelly

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How'd you attach that to the roof? And about how much was the rack you made?
The fittings aren't cheap, but I've changed the configuration a couple times for very little. I've got about $400 in it. I used four 2" pieces of angle iron to attach it to the factory roof rack rails. Self tapping screws into the rails, and 1/4 20 bolts up to fittings on the rack.IMG_4117.PNG
 
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Kelly

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How'd you attach that to the roof? And about how much was the rack you made?
I see you have a van. The cool thing about Speed-Rail is you can get the pipe in 20' pieces. So you could Rack the entire length of the roof, and it's strong enough to make a ladder as well.
 

Kelly

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Yep! The weight of the rack/load is sitting on the factory rails. The screws only have to overcome the wind resistance. Not much really. All 8 would have to shear off (from wind) for it to be an issue.
 
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4xFar Adventures

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That's a little scary. At the minimum, you should have a nut on the other side of the head. A 3/8" grade 8 nut and bolt would be 1000's of times stronger. What are you using to mount the Hi-Lift? I'd also highly recommend replacing the bungee cords with ratchet straps.

Sorry, I'm not tying to rag on you, your work, or your setup. I'm just very safety conscious and want to be sure that everyone on the trail (and highway) is safe.
 

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No17.jpg

This is my Camera Car with 1.5" Speed-rail. I used No.17 Adj. Elbows at the ends of the diagonal tubes. they're only as strong as the pin that connects the two sides. You used the term "Swing Arm". It has no bushing or bearing, so it's not made to be a constantly moving joint. Also, It can't be locked into position, and it's not a precision joint. There's some "slop" in them. What did you want to use it for?

P.S. I disconnect mine often, so I replaced the pins with these...

s070940zbulowres.jpg
 
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I was just curious, you mentioned using it as a ladder. I was thinking like a moving arm for an awning, but I see it's for less common angles. I think I'll have to draw up a sketch and get with you to figure out measurements. And figure out of this could work for my van.
 

Kelly

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I was just curious, you mentioned using it as a ladder. I was thinking like a moving arm for an awning, but I see it's for less common angles. I think I'll have to draw up a sketch and get with you to figure out measurements. And figure out of this could work for my van.
I've got some ideas for an awning as well. Keep in touch.
 
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AdventureWithDanan

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Following this post!

I've wanted a nice roof rack for my tundra, but they don't make one save for the Thule and Yamika, but they only hold 125 lbs or something like that.
 

TheBarefootFamily

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Rec that is a "Boss" way of making a Roof/Cargo rack, personally I still use the factory rack and fluted roof top to carry what I need and I secure it all with reinforced ratchet straps.

Setup and ready to roll, I can carry everything my family needs and have room for 2 more people worth of stuff using a nifty set of rail extensions, I found in a local junk yard, hasn't failed me yet, but I have had someone try and steal the extensions.
 
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ce4460

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That's a little scary. At the minimum, you should have a nut on the other side of the head. A 3/8" grade 8 nut and bolt would be 1000's of times stronger. What are you using to mount the Hi-Lift? I'd also highly recommend replacing the bungee cords with ratchet straps.

Sorry, I'm not tying to rag on you, your work, or your setup. I'm just very safety conscious and want to be sure that everyone on the trail (and highway) is safe.
I appreciate those whole point out potential safety concerns. Can't tell you how many times others safety advice saved my butt. Critique on Superman.
 
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